Jochen Weber  -  Photography  |  Photo Documentary
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Gifts of the Gods
Diamonds and India – a Photo Documentary
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Drop diamond (pear shaped)

Drop diamond (pear shaped)
This cut is currently in trend. The elongated form allows the finger of the hand to appear narrower than it is.




Until the Middle Ages, the monopoly of the diamond trade was divided amongst the Arabs and the Persians, and all the diamonds that reached Europe were raw diamonds, that is uncut. The first of these large, valuable stones came to Europe through heists and spoils of war and only in the Middle Ages did the diamond become the King of Precious Stones, and remained so naturally for a long time among its peers: at the Royal Court. The Monarchs treasured the diamond as a sign of prosperity and power. A man whose name is inextricably linked with this history was Jean-Baptiste Tavernier. This diamond expert from Antwerp brought several diamonds from the Orient and India into Europe, and among those were twenty stones between 30 and 50 carats! A couple of diamonds achieved immense fame later, for example the “Kohinoor” or the “Hope Diamond”, which according to legend were removed from the statue of a God, Deity Vishnu.

[Some of the most famous diamonds with their histories… Open here]







Diamonds and rubies

Diamonds and rubies: The Monarchs treasured precious stones as a sign of prosperity and power.







A diamond consists of pure carbon; it is therefore a close relative of graphite, which is for example found in pencils. Their varying properties occur due to the differing crystal structures of both materials, which can be explained by their origin. The diamond crystals, in which every carbon atom is connected to its four neighbours, and what gives it its grid-structure, have been developing for several billion years deep in the core of the earth at a depth of 130 to 700 kilometers at temperatures of more than 1000° Celsius and at an enormous pressure of 40,000 bar and more. In graphite, the carbon atoms are arranged in layers, only few of which are however linked to each other. That is why graphite leaves behind quickly, a grey trace on paper. Wherever the intensity of temperature and pressure is less, no diamonds develop, only graphite. Over the course of time, the diamonds rise with the magma on the earth’s surface. Sometimes they get pushed up with the volcanic eruptions and sometimes even ejected. Through this volcanic cones with long vents are formed, which fill up with volcanic stones and within them the embedded diamonds. This rock is Kimberlite, or called as per its colour “blue ground”; other parent rocks for the diamond can also be Peridot or for e.g. Eklogit.

[More about the origin of diamonds… Open here]








Poço Azul, Chapada Diamantina, Brazil

Poço Azul, Chapada Diamantina, Brazil







At first the discovery of diamonds was restricted to secondary deposits, that is, in eroded rocks close to rivers, the alluvial deposits. The process of extracting diamonds consisted simply of sieving and washing of the riverbeds, as with the old Brazilian Garimpeiro System (see my photo documentary: “Cago – In Search of Freedom”) wherein the soil of the riverbed is sifted with a sieve. With the discovery of the diamond deposits in South Africa, this simple method was no longer adequate and through experience with ore mines, the mining of diamonds became a widely evolved technique right from the beginning. Just like the mining of the alluvial deposits initially, so also the superficial mining of Kimberlite-pipes, the so-called primary mining, began in surface mining. After a depth of about 100m the safety of the workers in surface mining is no longer guaranteed and the transition to underground mining becomes necessary. The ore containing diamonds is mined or loosened through blasts, ground and then washed. There is always a demand for huge quantities of rock, in order to obtain a few valuable precious stones. For 1 carat of diamonds, a few tons of rocks are necessary for mining.

[More about the mining of diamonds… Open here]







The old “Garimpeiro-System”, Brazil

The old “Garimpeiro-System
, which one can find even today in Brazil








Distribution channels for diamonds

                    Different distribution channels for diamonds



The company, De Beers, alone employs 20,000 people worldwide. A large portion of the raw diamonds is sold further through its own “Diamond Trading Company” (DTC) in London, Gaborone, Kimberley and Windhoek. The DTC is a part of the supply chain of the De Beers Group, the “Central Selling Organization” (CSO), which consolidates the supply of raw diamonds from different sources into a single wholesale offer. The diamonds, which are sold according to a traditional ritual to the two customer groups, “Sightholders” and “Accredited Buyers”, exists even today. At these events, diamond cutters, jewellery manufacturers and wholesalers are called for the sale of the so-called “Boxes”. Each customer is led individually in a room, where he can examine the “Boxes” with the diamonds. Selection and price – per box today is on an average about $ 500,000 – are not for discussion, the choice is only between buying and not buying, payment is made by cash.

The market power of De Beers has however drastically decreased in the last few years. The reason is the break-up of the cartel through the diamond mine in Argyle, Australia, as well as the rising competition from independent diamonds producers, primarily in Canada and Russia. As a reaction to the decline of its market share, De Beers started a massive campaign through its own marketing firm, with the slogan, “A diamond is forever”. For this the company developed a new technology, of engraving a logo, “Forevermark”, invisible to the naked eye, in the table of the diamond, accompanied by a Certificate of Authenticity.







Colour shades of diamonds

Colour shades of diamonds








To give myself a better idea of how the diamond cutting is done in India today, I paid a visit to the city of Surat. As I arrived in Surat, however, I had to first solve a small problem, because I had forgotten two of the locking screws of my Manfrotto-tripod head at home; they were lying in another bag, and without which, the tripod-head is completely unusable.

[The tripod story... Open here]






  

Planning department
                                         Planning department


The procedures and organizational structure of diamond processing for both the firms that I visited, “Sanghvi Exports International” and “Hari Krishna Export” are a little different. For the sake of simplicity I have structured the procedures and mixed the photos from both the firms. Whoever had ever imagined, that at a diamond-cutting factory, everybody just cuts, saws and drills, is mistaken.

The main activity, before the cutting is even thought of, is of starting all the computers. Hundreds of employees just sit in front of the computers! That means, one already knows today, before the cutting, what the raw diamond will look like at the end. How many stones, what clarity, how many carats, which form etc.

But first things first.


How are raw diamonds purchased in the first place? As the surface of a raw diamond is normally clouded, very little can be said in the beginning about the quality and the actual purity of the diamond used later in jewellery. Through the analysis of a raw diamond, a buyer must be able to determine exactly, what the weight of the diamond is going to be after cutting and polishing. Additionally, he examines the form, the crystallization, the internal tensile stress and the deformities of the raw diamond. The equipment required for the examination of the raw diamonds includes a scale, a 10x magnifying glass and a diamond tester. The diamond tester measures the thermal resistance of a raw diamond and displays its thermal conductivity.


[Examination and Price Calculation of raw diamonds... Open here]

The examination of diamonds requires a lot of experience

The examination of diamonds requires a lot of experience







As a measure against conflict diamonds, also known as “Blood Diamonds” – the “Kimberly Process Certificate Scheme” (KPCS) was devised at a meeting held in May 2000 in Kimberly, South Africa by the south-African diamond producing nations, which guaranteed an unambiguous and pristine origin of the diamonds. Its aim was to prevent these diamonds from invading the market flow of raw diamonds. A “Blood Diamond” is a diamond, the proceeds of which are used to finance violent conflicts. They are mostly illegally prospected and sold in conflict areas in order to finance insurgent and invading troops. The raw diamonds from the other diamond mines worldwide are supplied to the relevant global stock exchanges in Antwerp, New York, Dubai, Ramat Gan (Israel), Johannesburg and Paris among others.




Map of active diamond mines

Use of the map with friendly approval from www.diamanten-infos.com





[Active diamond mines world wide... Open here]


Room with Galaxy Scanners
                                  Room with Galaxy Scanners



Galaxy 3D-Scanner
Galaxy 3D-Scanner                                             

                                    
Diamant in der Halterung des Scanners
                      Diamond in the bracket of the scanner

Inside of a Galaxy 3D-Scanner
                              Inside of a Galaxy 3D-Scanner

3D-scan with the positions of all the inclusions of a diamond
    3D-scan with the positions of all the inclusions of a diamond
First, all the incoming diamonds are examined and their passage through the company is determined. The stones that are smaller than 0.20 carats (so called “Mêlée-goods”) go a different way than the bigger ones, from which most of them at first are subject to a 3D scan. The Israeli company, “Sarine” is the global market leader for its scanners with the brand, “The Galaxy”.

This 3D scanner recognizes and localizes automatically, all the impurities of the raw diamonds, the so-called “Inclusions” even on the inside. The data obtained is then directly transferred to a specially developed diamond planning software. Thus the actual value of the cut diamond can be exactly determined beforehand, in accordance with the fundamentals of the “4Cs”.

In the next step the inclusions recognized by the 3D-Scan in the diamonds are marked digitally. These markings help the Planning Division at a later stage to prepare the stone correctly for processing. The planners study the stone with help of special CAD Software on the basis of the Galaxy-3D-Scans and the marked inclusions.

The CAD-Software is so progammed that every cut diamond with all possible cuts and positions of the diamond can be simulated in the raw diamond – that is truly fascinating. The Software shows the price of the suggested solutions immediately, according to the weight, clarity and colour. Here, it is also decided on the PC, how the raw diamond is going to be processed and in how many single diamonds it is going to be divided and where the laser cutting or cuttings will be carried out.

There are innumerable possibilities for raw diamonds, which must be played through and thus the decision is not easy. The rule is to first get one or more cut diamonds in their purest form, because here the price differentiation is the greatest. Thus, first of all, the marked inclusions have to be avoided. A small diamond with the characteristics “IF” (internally flawless) can be more expensive than a bigger diamond with the characteristic “VS1” (very small inclusions1).

As the decision of this activity decides the profitability of the business, the results of the department are compared to the results of a second planning department. The final suggestion is then once again finally controlled by the chief planner.

Once the decision is made, the raw diamond is marked with a laser marking, a very fine black line, which shows the colleagues in the laser room, how the diamond has to be cut.





The inclusions are marked digitally (green)
                    The inclusions are marked digitally (green)
Planning of the splitting of the diamond on the PC
Planning of the splitting of the diamond on the PC             





Laser marking for the cutting
                                Laser marking for the cutting
Laser marking
Laser marking                                             










The position of a possible diamond in a 3D-scan. Green represents inclusions that can be avoided, red is an unavoidable inclusion

The position of a possible diamond in a 3D-scan. Green represents inclusions that can be avoided, red is an unavoidable inclusion.











   




© Copyright: Photos and Text: Jochen Weber



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